Thursday, October 22, 2009 - Off to NormandyThis morning we left Paris and headed for Normandy. We got to the train station in no time and had about an hour before our train left. I’m proud to say that we had no problem, whatsoever, finding the train and a seat on it. I shouldn’t brag yet, though, as we have at least one more train to catch.
It took about an hour to get to Rouen. From there we found the Hertz place and picked up our rental car. We loaded our bags and decided to walk around Rouen. It is there that Joan of Arc was burned at the stake, so we found the place where this happened and there is a chapel there. We went inside the chapel and it was interesting – mostly in shape and design.
This cross marks the spot that Joan of Arc was burned at the stake:

Rouen is also home to the chapel made famous by Monet that we saw in the Orsay. He painted it over 30 times. The front of it is under construction. Or perhaps it is under restoration, so I resorted to a postcard to get the full chapel.
Rouen Cathedral:


From Rouen, we drove to Honfleur. Honfleur is highly recommended by every travel guide I’ve read about Normandy. It is a quaint, pretty town with a harbor and lies where the Seine River empties into the English Channel. We walked around and visited 2 churches in Honfleur – Eglise St. Leonard – a very old church behind the visitor information center. Joe liked this church because it was small and simple. Eglise St. Catherine is a wooden church built to celebrate the end of the Hundred Years War and is the largest wooden church in France. After a walk around town, we decided to walk along the seawall and see the Normandy Bridge, which links Honfleur to Le Havre and was allegedly an engineering marvel.
Le Vieux Bassin, Honfleur:

Eglise St.-Leonard

Eglise St. Catherine:

Finally, we ended our day in our base for the rest of our time in Normandy – Bayeux. It was the first town liberated in 1944 and is very near the D-Day Beaches, which is the primary purpose for our excursion to this part of France.
Bayeux:
Friday, October 23, 2009 – Mont St. MichelLast night we decided that we needed a long day to do the D-Day Beaches and that we weren’t armed with all the information – we needed to visit the information center in town, which opens at 9:30. So, for today’s itinerary, we switched and decided to begin the day with a visit to the Bayeux Tapestry and then a drive to Mont St. Michel.
The Bayeux Tapestry tells the story of the Norman Conquest in embroidery. The thing is huge!!! It measures 70 meters long, or 230 feet. I think I especially appreciated it because I know how to embroider and I can’t imagine how long it would take to accomplish such a task. It really was very stunning. An audio guide explained what we were seeing (the story it was telling, in other words) and then there was a museum and a movie that highlighted on the tapestry. I thought it was a very worthwhile stop!!!
Mont St. Michel is an abbey located about 85 miles from Bayeux. We have a huge map we bought at home, so we didn’t have trouble finding it (for the most part). It is a stunning sight when you see it from afar. Well, and it’s stunning up close, too, don’t get me wrong. On the way up to the abbey, you pass through lots of shops and restaurants. The bus driver from our hotel described it as “Mont St. Mickey” as in Mickey Mouse. I thought it was still interesting and actually enjoyed walking through the streets even though I didn’t buy anything.


It was a long walk up to the abbey. We took the tour, although they were out of audioguides. All in all, I thought be abbey was very impressive, although I told Joe that I thought it was really more striking from a distance. Not that I regret touring it, but the monks lived very simple existences and there is nothing elaborate or beautiful about the abbey itself (the anti-Versailles). It’s more interesting to learn how it was built and how it has withstood the test of time.
Neogothic spire of the church tower built in 1897 with the gilded copper statue of Saint Michael on top:

Spider web in the cloister:

The abbey church:

After a tour of the abbey, we stopped for lunch. I picked the place because of the patio, then realized the menu did not have an English version. We ended up ordering spaghetti because it was the only thing we knew for sure what it was!!!
As we were leaving the abbey, Joe had seen a sign for a German cemetery, so we stopped there. It is built in a large circle and holds the remains of 11,956 German war dead. There are 2 levels and 34 crypts. Within each crypt are the bones of 180 men. It was sad and kind of creepy.
We made it back to Bayeux in time to see the cathedral here, which is also called Notre-Dame. It is large, and quite pretty. It survived (as did all of Bayeux)
D-Day without a scratch.

Saturday, October 24, 2009 – Rain and a Flat TireToday was the day to tour the D-Day sites. I let Joe be in charge of this as this is his area of expertise. We quickly figured out that we would never get it done in one day, but we set out in the morning to do as much as we could. Our first stop was Arromanches. I learned a lot here because this was the site of a temporary harbor that was built by the British to get supplies to the troops. They built these huge barges and brought them across the channel, then hooked the ships up to the barges. They had film footage of these huge tanks being driven across these temporary barges – it was really impressive. A lot of the barges are still out in the bay and there are a few on the beach. We walked down and around them (and boy did they STINK!!!). After the museum and beach there, we saw a 360 degree movie about D-Day. It was good, but probably could have been skipped.


From Arromanches, we headed to see the German gun battery. There are about 4 guns still intact, although 2 of them sustained major damage. We walked around the lookout station as well. This was another interesting stop. The sign told us that they were 152mm guns, with a range of over twelve miles. “In the night of 5 to 6 June, the Allies spilled a thousand tons of bombs onto the battery, with considerable accuracy, but to no great effect.” Still, by the morning of the 7th, the battery was occupied by British soldiers and the garrison was taken prisoner without a fight.
The Longues Gun Battery:

Looking out at the English Channel from the Longues Gun Battery:

Next, was the American Cemetery at Omaha Beach. Sadly, as we pulled into the parking lot, we realized that a tiny rock had punctured a tire on the rental car and we were getting a flat tire. Sigh. I spent a considerable amount of time on the phone with Hertz and ended up in an argument with the woman on the other end. Finally, with the help of a French-speaking woman who worked at the cemetery, we were able to confirm the pickup of a new car in Bayeux. Even more sadly, by the time I saw the cemetery, I was totally frustrated and upset and to some extent, it ruined my American Cemetery experience. We flew through the visitor center and out to the cemetery itself because we were now on a time schedule to get back to Bayeux to get our new car. When I saw all the crosses, I must say that it put in perspective my frustrations. There are 9,387 graves of American Soldiers here. These 9,387 men and women never had an opportunity to live 45 years and go on a great vacation. My problems with the Hertz representative were so trivial really, and it made me even sadder.
The Memorial features a 22-foot statue, "The Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves" faces the tombstones.

On 172.5 acres, lie 9,387 graves of American Soldiers who defended freedom during WWII. The government of France granted use of this land, in perpetuity, as a permanent burial ground without charge or taxation.

The crosses at The American Cemetery at Omaha Beach are precisely aligned headstones of white Lasa marble Latin Crosses and Stars of David:

These two soldiers, Frank Benson, Jr. of Connecticut and James Sheen of Idaho were killed on D-Day - June 6, 1944.

Some of the graves have the remains of soldiers who were never identified. Their crosses read, "Here Rests in Honored Glory a Comrade in Arms Known But to God."

From the cemetery, we walked down to the actual beach (Omaha Beach). It was a long way down – I was very surprised. And were it not for a path down, it would have been really difficult to get down there because of all of the trees and brush. It really put into perspective what the D-Day invasion was like – knowing that the Allied Forces were coming in on the beaches and the Germans were on top of the bluff with rifles, shooting at them. 2,499 US men were killed that day during the invasion.


Unfortunately, after seeing the cemetery and the beach we had to head back to Bayeux to pick up the new rental car. I was so disappointed – especially for Joe since this was the biggest reason we came on this vacation for him. He took it in stride, as he does. In Bayeux, they gave us the tiniest, crappiest car I’ve ever seen in my life even though they had the exact car we had in the lot. The girl didn’t seem to understand that we were exchanging the car. Or I guess I didn’t understand why they couldn’t exchange it for the same car, but we took el-crapo and headed back to a couple more D-Day sites.
El Crapo:

Our next stop was Pointe du Hoc where the Ranger Memorial is. Joe was especially impressed with this site because France has done nothing to hide the war damage. There are bomb craters all over the bluff. The 2nd Ranger Battalion had the daunting mission of scaling the steep cliffs to destroy the gun battery located on top. Only 90 of 225 men survived. The memorial sits on the very edge of the bluff and is not accessible to the public. I’m guessing a few too many people may have fallen over the side or tried to re-create the climb.


Finally, we made it to Ste. Mere Eglise, famous for the paratrooper whose chute was tangled on the steeple of the church. The town has a parachute and a dummy hanging on the church as a monument. It was getting dark so we didn’t stay long, but it was interesting to see and to think about that poor man, stuck up there. He didn’t survive; he was shot by the Germans before he could cut his chute.

We will definitely have to return to Normandy. There are so many museums and points of interest that we didn’t even begin to touch. Poor Joe could probably spend a week here!
Sunday, October 25, 2009 – Making our way to FrankfurtAfter checking flights a few more times we decided that our best option for getting home was getting to Frankfurt. This had been our original plan, however, that plan had involved flying on a ZED ticket to FRA from CDG and not spending a small fortune on train tickets. Sigh. Oh well…what can you do? Our last day was spent on trains and in train stations getting to Frankfurt, but we made our FRA-DFW flight with no problem and we even got business class!!
And that does it for another Joe and Lori Adventure. One more in 2009 - a family trip to Florida between Christmas and New Year. But never fear - we have already booked a trip for 2010 and have 2 more in the preliminary planning stages. Yeah!!! I just LOVE vacations.